FCA Fly Tying in Staten Island

The Fisherman’s Conservation Association (FCA) will be hosting the annual Winter Fly Tying gatherings every Sunday morning, starting January 9th through March 27th, 2011.

Admission: Free

Time: 9am-11am

Blue Heron Park Nature Center
222 Poillion Ave
Staten Island, NY

Description: Primarily Saltwater Fly Tyers in attendance. The FCA will supply entry level vises and limited materials for Newbies, however skilled tyers should plan on bringing your own equipment and materials. This is open gathering, sharing/swapping fly patterns, etc. Newbies to Advanced fly tyers are welcome to join. Continue reading

Flat Wing Baitfish Pattern by David Nelson

Flat Wing Baitfish


Hook: Standard length hook (Mustad 34007, Tiemo 811S)
Base/tail: 2 ½” – 3″ long neck hackle
Body: reverse tied buck tail*
Tail: saddle hackle: extend 3″ beyond neck hackle
Flash: optional
Belly: small, sparse buck tail*
Wing: small, sparse buck tail*
Belly flash: light color angel hair, GSS, wing & flash, or similar
Wing flash: contrasting color of angel hair, GSS, wing & flash
Cement: Dave’s flexament
Eyes: jungle cock, (optional)
* It’s a good idea to use buck tail from the base of the tail and allow it to splay as you tighten your thread wraps since the intention is to build bulk without adding weight weight – hollow fleye style.
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Beginner Level 1: Saltwater Fly Tying Manual

This class is designed for people who have never tied a fly before. The objective will be to emphasize repetition and simplicity as a foundation for learning new patterns. Basic skills of identifying hooks, identifying thread, identifying tools, identifying the most common materials and simply applying thread to the hook with a handful of different material types will be taught.
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Articulated Crease Fly

Fly Tying Corner, August 1999

by John Timmermann

articulated crease flyThe hinge effect gives this fly a life like motion similar to a jointed plug. Vary the retrieve to vary the motion. Recently caught Bass although none were showing. Seems to aggravate them into striking. Because of the wire and the epoxy coating, the fly seems to hold up well to toothy creature attacks.

  • Tiemco 800’s 2/0
  • White Flymaster Plus
  • White Arctic Fox
  • Blados body foam and foil
  • Clear-coated braided wire
  • Permanent marking pens
  • 2 ton epoxy
  • stick on eyes
  • CA glue

Prepare the live body foam before hand. Follow the instructions given with Joe Blados’ kit. You can obtain a kit from Joe by phone @ Maverick Flies 516-765-3670. You may want to substitute the foil with Lame’. This material can be purchased in most fabric stores and looks great in either silver or gold (it is applied to the foam in the same manner as the foil). My most productive flies are made with Joe’s silver foil. As Joe once said, “this fly is constructed more than tied.”

  1. Cut off approx. one inch of wire and secure one end in the vise.
  2. Wrap approx. 3/8″ of one end of the wire with thread.
  3. Tie in about 1/8″ hank of arctic fox fur to create tail, whip finish.
  4. Fold over wire creating a loop, and wind thread to secure leaving a finished loop of about 1/8″. The length of the wire portion when complete should be about 5/8″ long plus whatever tail is created by the fox fur. Coat thread with CA cement and allow to dry. Remove from vise.
  5. Secure hook in vise. Cut approx. 2 1/4″ of wire. Form a loop interlocking the tail section loop. Even ends and start to tie both ends of the wire at formed loop end. The loop created should be about 1/8″ in diameter. Locate the end of the newly formed loop at the outside bend of the hook. Lay wire on top of the hook and lash in place passing over wire three times and finishing at the hook eye. Whip finish and coat with CA cement. Allow to dry.
  6. Measure the tail section and cut foam to size. Foam should measure from directly aft of the loop to the end of the wire. Fold over and cut to body shape.
  7. Apply, CA cement to wrapped wire and fold aft section over wire and hold until secure. Wire loop should be about 1/3 of the depth from bottom of foam.
  8. Measure forward section and cut to size. This section should have foam measured from just forward of loop to hook eye. Fold over and cut body shape trying to blend aft portion of forward section to forward portion of aft section.
  9. Apply CA cement to hook and wrapped wire. Fold over precut foam body and hold until secure. The loop on the forward section should again be about 1/3rd of the depth from the bottom of the foam. This should allow a smooth transition from forward to aft segments.
  10. Press down on foam above the hook eye and apply CA cement to formed oval. Allow to set. You may want to fill this cavity with a precut section of foam prior to application of CA cement.
  11. Color both segments with markers including the tail section and apply the eyes.
  12. Apply a light coat of 2 ton epoxy and allow to dry.