Grey’s End Deceiver

Grey's End DeceiverThis is a very good pattern to use any time of year. It works especially well when there is spearing, smelt or bay anchovies around. You can also try different color combinations for the wing and throat such as green, blue or hot pink on top and white or chartreuse on bottom.







Tail: White saddle hackles, 3 or 4 inches longWhite Krystal Flash

Body: White Corsair tubing, 1/4 inch diameter Silver mylar strips, approx. 1/16th inch diameter
Upper Wing: Gray bucktail
Lower Wing: Red Krystal Flash
Eyes: Silver stick on eyes, size 2
Head: 5 minute epoxy
Misc: 30 lb. test hard nylon clear monofilament
Adhesive: Clear head cement

Tying Instructions


  1. Place the hook in the vise and anchor the thread near the rear of the hook, a little before the bend begins.
  2. Cut a 3 inch piece of the 30 lb. test mono and tie one end to the side of the hook near the bend on the opposite side from you. Secure this end tightly and trim any excess. Then loop the mono around behind the hook and tie the other end of the mono to the rear of the hook near the bend on the side facing you. Just make a few turns on this end (this will be the tag end). Carefully pull the tag end of the mono towards the front of the hook until there is a small loop of mono hanging off the end of the hook above the bend. Secure the tag end and trim any excess.
  3. Select 3 white hackles and remove the marabou leaving only the feather.
  4. Lay the 3 hackles together, place the hackles over the end of the hook and tie them to the hook beginning about half way on the shank. Secure the hackles from front to rear so they lay on the mono loop that was created in step 3. The loop will help to support the hackles and reduce the chances of them fouling.
  5. Tie 3 strands of white Krystal flash along each side of the hackles. The strands can be of varying lengths, but none longer than the hackles.
  6. Secure the thread to the hook shank, clip it and coat lightly with head cement.
  7. Allow the fly to dry completely (usually just a few minutes).
  8. Cut a section of white Corsair tubing that is slightly longer then the length of the hook shank.
  9. Slide the Corsair tubing down the shank of the hook past the eye. Reattach the thread to the hook shank between the eye of the hook and the front end of the tubing. Push the tubing all the way back down the band of the hook so the front end of the tubing (the end facing the eye of the hook) is lined up with where the mono loop has been anchored to the hook (don’t worry about pushing down on the hackles – they won’t be damaged). Wind the thread towards the back of the hook and tie the front end of the tubing over the wrappings previously made for the mono loop. Coat the tube anchorage lightly with head cement. Wind the thread forward again to the eye of the hook.
  10. Carefully work the Corsair tubing back over the shank of the hook, thus pulling the Corsair inside out. Pull the tubing to the eye and tie it off just behind the eye. Trim any excess tubing.
  11. Turn the fly over and tie 6 to 8 strands of red Krystal Flash as throat. The strands should run no longer than from the eye about 1/3rd the length of the body.
  12. Turn the fly back right side up and tie a sparse amount of gray bucktail for the top wing, extending back to the bend of the hook.
  13. Tie a strip of silver mylar to both sides of the fly, running parallel to the body, from the eye back to the bend (secure the strip at the front end only).
  14. Use the thread to build up the head, then whip finish.
  15. Coat the head with head cement.
  16. Before the cement is completely dry place a silver stick on eye on either side of the head. Then allow the fly to dry fully.
  17. Finally, mix a small amount of 5 minute epoxy and coat the head completely. Also extend the epoxy back to cover about 1/4 inch of the body, including the wing and throat. Be sure the head sets to form a well rounded shape.





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